Monday, July 5, 2010

Rhinoplasty...?




I was fine sanding the board in preparation for glassing and I noticed that part of the nose is dangerously thin. It's so thin in fact, that I can see the Titebond and part of the starter strip. I'm at a crossroads here, trying to decide whether I should just leave it as is and just glass it or remove the thinned area and replace it with a nose block. The tape in the images is the outline of where I would cut the nose to add a nose block. I'm leaning toward leaving the thinned area and glassing it, but I'm concerned that it will affect the structural integrity and possibly be prone to leaking. I've emailed Mike at Grain seeking advice and will wait until I hear back from him before proceeding.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Tail Block, Rail Shaping and Sanding





























Once again, it's been a while since I last posted an update. Since the last post, I completed the shaping stands, attached the tail block, shaped the rails and began sanding in preparation for glassing.

Attaching the tail block required a few attempts. First, I made a clean, straight cut across the tail section. Then I made a small, three layer tail block, consisting of walnut and cedar. Initially I tried to use some of the many clamps I have accumulated with this project. None seemed to work very well. I decided to try using blue tape instead of clamps and it worked great, much better than I initially thought. After 24 hours under tape, I was able to shape the tail block and there was never any indication that the tail block was not absolutely adhered to the board.

Shaping the rails seemed easier than I thought, which may indicate that I did it incorrectly. I used a block plane and sanding block. I moved slowly and tried not to take off too much wood during the process. The only place where I had trouble was the nose, where I sanded too much and exposed a small amount of Titebond III.

In retrospect, I should have worked more gingerly while I was adhering the bead and cove strips for the rails. There are some small gaps and areas where Titebond is exposed. I hesitate to sand off all the Titebond because the rails already seem thin. I also fear that it would change the symmetry (what little there is) of the rails.

I sanded the deck and bottom as well as the rails with 80 grit sandpaper. I just started sanding with 150 grit to remove the small scratch marks left by the 80 grit. There are a few areas where there deeper impressions in the wood from the block plane pulling the wood that I fear the sanding won't remedy.

I see quite a few small (and not so small) imperfections in my work, but I suppose that's part of the learning process. In the background of some of the images, a Sapling can be seen on the rocker table.